East Dennis: "More Is Not Better. Better Is Better"
John and Stephanie Lowell have farmed East Dennis oysters since 2003 on two one-acre grants off Crowe's Pasture, half a mile out on Cape Cod Bay's flats.
Brine3/ 5
Sweetness3/ 5
Minerality3/ 5
Umami2/ 5
USA · Crassostrea virginica · finish clean · texture firm · lemon yes · 26–31 ppt · 1–21 °C · best October to April
Basic Profile
Origin
Tidal flats off Crowe's Pasture Beach, East Dennis, Cape Cod, Massachusetts, USA
Species
Crassostrea virginica (Eastern Oyster)
Classification
Farmed; single producer
Farming Method
Shallow containers anchored in the sand flats, half a mile offshore
Producer
East Dennis Oyster Farm (John and Stephanie Lowell)
Visual Signature
Eastern oyster shell
John and Stephanie Lowell started East Dennis Oyster Farm in 2003. Each holds a one-acre grant on the flats off Crowe's Pasture Beach in Dennis, about half a mile out into Cape Cod Bay, and between them they keep roughly 400,000 oysters in production.1
The shore at East Dennis, Massachusetts, on Cape Cod Bay. Photo: Daderot / Wikimedia Commons (CC0)
How They Farm
The oysters sit in shallow containers about three feet square, anchored 18 to 24 inches into the sand and packed loosely so that salt water moves through. In winter the stock comes ashore into an insulated trailer the Lowells call the pit, with another 200 bags held at Sesuit Harbor.1
Their rule is "More is not better. Better is better." They sell all year, supply four Dennis restaurants and run the raw bar at two of them in season.1
Flavor Breakdown
The water
Open Cape Cod Bay over sand, with a big tide. Our scores are level at three for brine, sweetness and minerality.
The bite
Firm, from hours out of the water at each low tide. Salt opens, and the finish is short and dry.
What Makes East Dennis Unique
A two-acre farm run on the rule that better beats more, and one that pulls its crop off the flats every winter.1
A firm, even Cape Cod Bay oyster from a deliberately small farm. Eat it in Dennis, where the growers shuck it themselves.
Should You Add Lemon?
Yes
Takes a squeeze well.
Pairing Guide
1
Muscadet sur lie
Lean and saline.
2
Chablis
A little more body.
Optimal
Plain or lemon
Acceptable
Mignonette
Avoid
Heavy cocktail sauce
Who Is This For?
Will love it
People who like to buy from the grower
Fans of firm Cape oysters
Should skip it
Anyone looking for a sweet, soft oyster
Sources
Surrette, R. (4 February 2015). "A Passion for Oystering, Year-Round." CapeCod.com. capecod.com
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